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Friday, April 5, 2013


 
 
 
Grandma Perkins Magical Dream Catcher Frisbee
Dream Catcher by Night - Frisbee by Day


Yes! It’s a Two-For.
It has removable feathers
so it can transform into a Frisbee that you can catch:
Just like the Incredible Indoor Flying Doily.
Beat your drums and take a trip with me to Neverland.
We will head on down to Mermaid Lagoon
and over to the Indian Camp.
There we’ll find Tiger Lily,
and she can tell us all about Dream Catchers.
They are a tradition of Native Americans,
and began with the Ojibwa Nation.
They are designed to protect you
while you sleep.
Good dreams pass through the holes.
But bad dreams get trapped in the web,
and eventually vanish in the morning light.
This pattern is dedicated to Caelan,
who taught Grandma
all about Dream Catchers.
I just wanted to share a little happiness
and sprinkle a little pixie dust.
Dreams do come true, if only we wish hard enough.
Now I must fly.
Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning.
Pan

The Dream Catcher is a very easy pattern and will allow you to use your imagination. Just about any kind of stitch or design can be adapted to it.  There are infinite patterns that could be used.  Experiment with faces or animals or different shaped appliques such as hearts and stars.  They could be sewn to any part of the Dream Catcher, not just the center.  Just about any yarn or thread or cord (including postal or kite string) could be adapted.  You can change the hook size to make it tight or loose.   And with colors, anything goes.  The sky’s the limit.  My first proto-type was made with the plastic top of a large peanut can, and it worked quite well.  I realized that maybe not everyone could find a plastic top that large so I adapted the pattern to a plastic canvas circle shape that can be bought from craft shops.  A nine-inch circle can produce five different sized hoops that will be usable as Frisbees.  You could also continue to cut more hoops from the remaining circle, and create your own miniature Dream Catchers.  Have fun and enjoy the pattern. Pan


Sizes: 9.5” (~24 cm), 8.5” (21.5cm) 7.5” (19cm) 6.5” (16.5cm) and 6” (~15 cm)

Materials:
Caron Simply Soft (WW Med yarn): Various colors
~ ¼ oz. each color (or less)
~ ½ oz. if using only 1 color
Caron Simply Soft Light Sport wt: Small amount of Black for detailing
F / 3.75 mm hook
B / 2.25 mm hook for details
Plastic top ~ 6” (15cm) in diameter (I used a top from a 2.5 pound can of Kirkland peanuts)

Any container or plastic bottle (like a large liquid laundry soap container) that has a flat surface would work.
Trace and cut out a circle hoop.
Or a 6” (~15cm) to 9.5” (~24cm) plastic canvas circle (from a craft shop)
Or you could also use a brass hoop, but it would not be safe to throw as a Frisbee.

US Terminology

Gauge: 5 sc = ~ 1” Not crucial.

Abbreviations: 
~ = Approximately
Beg = Beginning
Ch = Chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Ss = Slip Stitch
St(s) = Stitch(es)
FO = Fasten Off
Lp(s) = Loop(s)
Rnd(s) = Round(s)
YO = Yarn over

Notes: When working the edging single crochets around the hoop, make sure that they are not too tight. 
With the plastic canvas circles, it is a may be difficult to reposition the yarn evenly.  The yarn does not slide as easily as working on a smooth surface, such as a plastic top or brass hoop.  So with every stitch, give a little nudge with your thumb and index finger to push the stitch snugly in place, but do not cramp. 
One more thing to mention: the number of stitches between each loop that is picked up to be joined can be varied. 
The thickness of the yarn and the size of the hoop could alter the volume of the coverage. 
This pattern is very forgiving so if you need more or less stitches to make it look even, go for it.

The plastic peanut-top was about 6” (15cm) in diameter. 
I cut the side-edge and also the top-edge off for 2 hoops.  The cut section for each was about 3/8” wide. 
To Prepare the Plastic Canvas: Carefully cut so you have an open circle-hoop that is 2 holes deep around the border. 
Be sure to cautiously trim the nubs so it will be as smooth as possible around the edges.
The number of stitches around the hoop is not set in stone.  The thickness of the yarn could vary it greatly so alter the number accordingly. .
[Remember these are just estimates]
The outer 2-hole edge ~ 9.5” (24cm).                                    Takes about 128 to 144 sc to cover with Caron Simply Soft yarn and an F hook.
The next 2-hole edge ~ 8.5” (21.5cm).                                   Takes about 122 to 138 sc.
The next 2-hole edge ~ 7.5” (19cm).                                     Takes about 116 to 132 sc.
The next 2-hole edge ~ 6.5” (16.5cm).                                   Takes about 110 to 128 sc.
The next 2-hole edge or Plastic top ~ 6” (15cm)                      Takes about 75 to 100 sc.   

Traditional Varigated:  6” (15 cm)
Rnd 1:  Ch 10, join to form ring.  Ch 9, (Dc, Ch 6) 4xs in the ring. 
Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-9 with a ss.  (5dcs, 5 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 2:  Ss in first 3 chs of the loop, to bring you to the center of that loop. 
Then…..  Ch 1, Sc in 1st sp.  (Ch 12, Sc in next lp) around.
Join with a ss in 1st sc.  (5 ch-12-lps)
Rnd 4:  Ss in next 6 chs.  Ch 1, Sc in center sp.  (Ch 15, Sc in next sp) around.
Join with a ss in 1st sc.  (5 ch-15-lps)

Edging around the Ring:
Ss in next 7 chs.  Now pull the loop from the 7th ss up ~3/8” (~1cm).
Place the hoop-ring behind the work with the working yarn over the top and in back of the hoop-ring.
Then insert the hook down through the ch-18-lp and the hoop-ring. 
YO and pull up to the top-edge of the hoop-ring and complete a sc.
[You will have worked a Sc around both the working-loop and the hoop-ring to join the work to the hoop-ring.]
Sc around just the hoop-ring 22 more times.
Join the next ch-18-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc.  
(22 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 5) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 22 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO. (110 +5 links = 115 sc)

Traditional 3-Colored:  6” (15 cm)
Rnd 1:  Magic Ring with Ch 1, 10 Hdc, join to the first hdc with a ss.  (10)
Rnd 2:  Ch 1, Hdc-Inc around, join.   (20) 
Rnd 3:  Ch 1, Sc in same st as join.   
(Ch 3, Skip 1 st, Sc in next) around.  Join to 1st sc with a ss.  (10 ch-3 lps)
Rnd 4:  Ch 1, Sc in first loop.   
(Ch 10, Sc in next lp) around.  Join to 1st sc with a ss.  FO.  (10 ch-10 lps)
Rnd 5:  Join new color with a ss in first loop. 
(Ch 12, Ss in next lp) around.  Join with a ss in first lp. FO.  (10 ch-12 lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc.  [You will have worked the Sc around both the loop and the hoop-ring]
(10 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 5) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO. (100 +10 links = 110 sc)


Yellow Sun Face:   6.5” (16.5 cm)
Eyes: Make 2 With Black sport wt and B hook:  
In a Magic Ring, Ch 1 and 5 sc. 
Join to first sc with a ss and FO with about 8” to sew.

Center Back:  With Med WW and F hook

Rnd 1:  Magic Ring with Ch 1, 10 Hdc, join to the first hdc with a ss.  (10)
Rnd 2:  Ch 1, Hdc-Inc around, join.   (20)  Back is complete. 
FO and set aside.

Center Front:  Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, but do not FO. 
Remove hook and put a safety pin in the loop so it will not unravel.
Position eyes and sew in place. 
Sew a mouth with a single strand straight sts.

Place the back (1st piece) behind the working piece with wrong sides together.
Remove safety pin and replace hook.
Rnd 3:  Work this Rnd through both thicknesses.   Ch 1, Make a Sc. 
(Ch 3, Sc in next st, Ch 6, sc in next) around.  Join last ch-6 with a ss to first sc.  FO.   (10 ch-3-lps, 10 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 4: Join a new color with a ss in a ch-6-lp.  
(Ch 6, ss in the next ch-6-lp) around.  Join last ch-6 with a ss to first loop.  FO.   (10 ch-6-lps)
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in a loop. 
(Ch 7, ss in the next ch-6-lp) around.  Join last ch-7 with a ss to first loop.  FO.   (10 ch-7-lps)
Rnd 6: Join a new color with a ss in a loop. 
(Ch 12, ss in the next ch-7-lp) around.  Join last ch-12 with a ss to first loop. FO.   (10 ch-12-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 6 with the next Sc.  [You will have worked the Sc around both the loop and the hoop-ring]
(10 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 6) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO. (100 +10 links = 110 sc)

Rainbow Rings:   7.5” (19 cm)
Center-Ring:
Rnd 1:  Ch 30.  Join to 1st ch to form a ring.  Ch 1, 50 sc in the ring.  Join.  (50)
Rnd 2:  Ch 1, Sc around.  Join.  FO.    (50)
Small-Rings:  (Make 6: each a different color) 
Each ring will be worked through the Center-Ring.
Rnd 1:  Ch 20. 
Pull the beginning part of the chain through the Center-Ring from the under-side.
Now join to the first chain.   Ch 1, 30 sc in the Small-Ring.  Join.  (30)
Rnd 2:  Ch 1, Sc around.  Join.  FO.    (30)

Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring. 
Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a Small-Ring with the next Sc.
[You will sc around the hoop-ring and into a sc on the Small-Ring]
Do this for a total of 6 sc’s to join the Small-Ring.


Do this for a total of 6 sc’s to join the Small-Ring.
Then…
(Sc just around the hoop-ring 15 times.  6 Sc to join the next Small-Ring.) Rep 4 more times.
Sc just around the hoop-ring 10 more times and join to the first sc.  FO.  (90 + 36 to join rings = 126 sc)

Blue Irish Rose:   7.5” (19 cm)
Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a ss to the 1st ch.  Ch 6, Dc in the Ring,
            (Ch 3, Dc in Ring) 4xs.  Ch 3, join to 3rd ch of the beg ch-6.
Rnd 2:  (Ss, Hdc, 3 Dc, Hdc, Ss) in each ch-3-lp around.  (6 petals)
Rnd 3:  (Ch 5, go behind the petal, ss to the first ss of the next petal) around.  (6 ch-5-lps)
Note: Mark the first dc of the first 4-dc-group for placement of the joining-st in next rnd.
Rnd 4:   (Sc, Hdc, 4 Dc, Hdc, Sc) in each ch-5-lp around.  Join to the 1st sc.  FO.   (6 petals)
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in the first dc of the 4-dc-group [marked st]. 
Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch from the hook (first picot-loop made).
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch from the hook) 2xs,
then ss in the same st as the first picot-lp [3-loop-picot complete]. 
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4 [first spoke complete].

* Ch 11, ss in the side of the last picot-loop of the last spoke,
Ch 3, sk the ss and the next 3 chs,
ss in the next ch [this should be the 8th ch counting up from the ss on Rnd 4: picot-loop made]
Note: When connecting picots, you may need to give a little tug on the ss to straighten it out.
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch from the hook) 2xs, ss in the same st as the first picot-lp. 
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4.*    [second spoke complete].

Repeat from * to * 10xs.  On the last picot of the last spoke Ch 3 [instead of 7],
ss to the beg first picot, Ch 3, ss
Ch 7, ss in the same as the beg marked st [the 1st dc of the 4-dc-group].  FO.  (12 spokes with 3-lp-picots).
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc on the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Work a Sc around the hoop-ring catching a center picot-loop from Rnd 5.
 (10 Sc, Sc with next center-picot-loop from Rnd 5) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO. (120 + 12 links = 132 sc)

Green Irish Rose:   8.5” (21.5cm)
Note: This pattern is the same as the Blue Irish Rose except picots are not connected on the sides, and it is stretched a bit tighter on a larger ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a ss to the 1st ch.  Ch 6, Dc in the Ring,
            (Ch 3, Dc in Ring) 4xs.  Ch 3, join to 3rd ch of the beg ch-6.
Rnd 2:  (Ss, Hdc, 3 Dc, Hdc, Ss) in each ch-3-lp around.  (6 petals)
Rnd 3:  (Ch 5, go behind the petal, ss to the first ss of the next petal) around.  (6 ch-5-lps)
Note: Mark the first dc of the first 4-dc-group for placement of the joining-st in next rnd.
Rnd 4:   (Sc, Hdc, 4 Dc, Hdc, Sc) in each ch-5-lp around.  Join to the 1st sc.  FO.   (6 petals)
Rnd 5: Join a new color with a ss in the first dc of the 4-dc-group [marked st]. 
Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch from the hook (first picot-loop made).
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch from the hook) 2xs,
then ss in the same st as the first picot-lp [3-loop-picot complete]. 
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4 [first spoke complete].


* Ch 14, ss in the 7th ch from the hook,            
(Ch 7, ss in the 7th ch from the hook) 2xs, ss in the same st as the first picot-lp. 
Ch 7, ss in the 4th dc of the 4-dc-group of Rnd 4.* (second spoke complete).

Repeat from * to * 9xs. Skip the 4th dc on the last dc-group.
Instead join the last ch 7 with a ss in the first dc of the 4-dc-group [marked st].  (11 spokes with 3-lp-picots).

 Edging around the Ring:

Join a new color with a Sc on the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Work a Sc around the hoop-ring catching a center picot-loop from Rnd 5.
(11 Sc, Sc with next center-picot-loop from Rnd 5, 12 Sc, Sc with next center-picot-loop from Rnd 5) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO. (126 + 11 links = 137 sc) 

Simple Web:   8.5” (21.5 cm)
Special Stitch:
Beg-Dc-Cluster = YO, insert hook in the st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook,
(YO, insert hook in same st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook), YO, pull through all 3 lps on the hook, ch 1 to complete.
3Dc-Cluster = YO, insert hook in st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook, (YO, insert hook in same st, YO, pull through st, YO, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, YO, pull through all 4 lps on the hook, ch 1 to complete.

Rnd 1:  Ch 10, join to first ch to form a ring.  Ch 1, 12 sc in the ring.
       Join to the 1st sc with a ss. (12 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, Beg-Dc-Cluster in first sc,
      (Ch 6, skip 1 sc, 3-Dc-Cluster in next sc) 5xs, Ch 3 and Dc in top of first cluster. 
      (6 clusters + 6 ch-6lps)
Rnd 3:   Ch 1, Sc in the joined loop.  (Ch 12, Sc in next lp) around. 
      Join to 1st sc with a ss.  (6 ch-12-lps)
Rnd 4:  Ch 1, Sc in same joined st.  (Ch 12, Sc in next loop, Ch 12, Sc in the next sc) around. 
      Join to 1st sc with a ss.  (12 ch12-lps)
Rnd 5: Ss in the first 6 chs of the next lp.  (Ch 12, Sc in the next lp) around.  Join to the 1st sc and FO.
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 4 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc.  [You will have worked the Sc around both the loop and the hoop-ring]
(10 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 5, 11 Sc, Sc next loop) around. 
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO.  (126 + 12 links = 138 sc)


Traditional Dream Catcher:   9 ½” (24 cm)
Rnd 1: 12 Dc in a Magic Ring. Join to 1st dc with a ss.  (12)
Rnd 2:  Ch 2, Dc-Inc around.  Join.  (24)
Rnd 3:  Ch 1, Sc in same as joined st.  (Ch 5, Skip 1 st, Sc in next) around. 
On last Ch 5, ss to the 1st sc to join. FO. (12 ch-5-lps)
Rnd 4:  Join a new color with a ss in a ch-5-lp. 
(Ch 10, ss in the next ch-5 lp) around.  Join last ch-8 to 1st lp with a ss. FO.
(12 ch-10-lps)
Rnd 5:  Join a new color with a ss in a ch-5-lp. 
(Ch 12, ss in the next ch-5 lp) around.  Join last ch-8 to 1st lp with a ss. FO.
(12 ch-122-lps)
Rnd 6:  Join a new color with a ss in a ch-5-lp. 
(Ch 14, ss in the next ch-5 lp) around.  Join last ch-8 to 1st lp with a ss. FO.  (12 ch-14-lps) 

Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc.  [You will have worked the Sc around both the loop and the hoop-ring]
(11 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO.  (132 + 12 links = 144 sc) 

Beige Flower Shape:   9 ½” (24 cm)

Rnd 1: 6 Sc in a Magic Ring. Join to 1st sc with a ss.  (6)
Rnd 2: Ch 6, Dc in the same st as the join and Ch 3.
(Dc, Ch 3, Dc) in the next st around. 
Join with a ss to the 3rd ch of beg ch-6.  (12 ch3-loops)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 7, Sc in top of next dc) around. 
Join with a ss to 1st sc. (12 ch7-lps)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 11, Sc in top of next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st sc. (12 ch11-lps)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 15, Sc in top of next dc) around. 
Join with a ss to 1st sc. (12 ch15-lps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 19, Sc in top of next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st sc.  (12 ch19-lps)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, Sc in same st as the join. (Ch 23, Sc in top of next dc) around.
Join with a ss to 1st sc. FO.  (12 ch23-lps)
Edging around the Ring:
Join a new color with a Sc around the hoop-ring.  Sc around the hoop-ring 5 more times.
Join a ch-12-lp from Rnd 5 with the next Sc.  [You will have worked the Sc around both the loop and the hoop-ring]
(11 Sc, Sc next loop from Rnd 5) around.
After the last loop is joined, work 5 Sc and join to the 1st st.  FO.  (132 + 12 links = 144 sc) 

Feathers and Tether
Sport Wt yarn and 3.75mm / F hook
Feather:  Ch 8, ss in 2nd ch from hook.  Sc in next. (Ch 1, Skip one ch, Hdc in next) 2xs.  Ch 1, 3 Sc in last ch.
Work opposite side of foundation-chain:  Ch 1, Hdc in next ch.  Ch 1, Skip one ch, Hdc in next.  Ch 1, skip 1 ch, Sc in next and ss in same as first ss.  Ch 2, ss in the 2nd ch from the hook (Picot made).
Now surface crochet with yarn held underneath: ss in the same as the first ss, then ss through each of the next 6 chs of the foundation-chain. One more ss through the 2nd sc.  Do not FO yet.
Feather-Tail:  Ch 4, ss in the 2nd and 3rd chs, and the last ss in the 4th ch will be in the back-ridge-bump. 
This positions the yarn to be weaved into the back of the leaf.  FO and weave in.

Tether for the Top:  Ch 40, join to the first ch to form a ring.  FO and weave in.

Tether for the Bottom to attach feathers: 
Leave ~ 5” beginning yarn.  Ch 40, Sc in the 3rd ch from the beginning. 
Sc in the 2nd and 1st chs and FO with about ~ 5” tail.
Place a feather right side up on top of the 3 sc’s.
Wrap the yarn ends crossed-over the feather and around the back and knot in place.
Use the yarn end to tack the feather-tail to the 3 sc’s on the tether.
Add the feathers, to the Dream Catchers and you will have sweet dreams.